Dryer Not Spinning - What To Do

When a dryer is not spinning, laundry day grinds to a halt. The good news: many causes are simple, and you can check them safely with a bit of patience. This guide walks you through practical diagnostics—from the quickest wins to deeper inspections—so you can decide what’s within DIY scope and what likely needs a technician. Note that Appliance Rescue does not offer repair services; we publish Expert Guides, Appliance Tips, and Troubleshooting Advice to help you work smarter and safer at home.

Before You Begin: Safety & Tools

Safety first. Always disconnect power before removing any panel.

Electric dryers: Unplug the cord.
Gas dryers: Unplug and close the gas shutoff valve.
Sharp edges & moving parts: Wear work gloves; avoid loose clothing.
Warranty: Opening panels may affect coverage—check your manual.

Helpful tools: Phillips/flat screwdrivers, nut driver set (1/4" and 5/16"), flashlight, putty knife (for top clips), multimeter (optional but handy), a small mirror, and your phone’s camera (to snap belt routing before removal).

Quick Checks (30–90 Seconds)

Start with these “low-effort, high-payoff” steps:

Power & breaker
Make sure the plug is fully seated. For electric models, a tripped double-pole breaker can leave the control panel lit but the motor dead. Reset the breaker fully off, then on.
Door closure & switch click
Open and close the door: you should hear a distinct “click” from the door switch. If the light stays on with the door closed or there’s no click, the switch may be faulty or misaligned.
Cycle & settings sanity check
Verify you didn’t select “Air Fluff” with a cold load or “Wrinkle Prevent” at the end of a finished cycle. Try a different cycle and press Start firmly for a full second.
Load size & tangles
Overfilled drums or twisted bedding can stall rotation. Remove half the load and test again.
Child lock / Control lock
If controls don’t respond—or you hear beeps but no action—disable child lock per your manual.

If the drum still doesn’t turn, move to the targeted checks below.

Targeted Checks You Can Do Without Full Disassembly

1) Listen for Motor Behavior

Press Start and pay attention:

Hums but won’t start turning: Commonly a worn belt, seized rollers, stuck idler pulley, or a weak start capacitor.
Silent, no hum: Could be a dead door switch, blown thermal fuse, faulty start switch, or no power to the motor.
Starts only when you hand-spin the drum (then stops): Often a start capacitor or motor winding issue.

Tip: With power disconnected, try rotating the drum by hand from inside. It should move smoothly. Grinding, scraping, or heavy resistance points to rollers, glides, or foreign objects.

2) Inspect the Belt Through an Access Gap

Many front-load dryers let you glimpse the belt by removing the top (two hidden clips at the front lip—use a putty knife). If the belt is slack, frayed, or missing, the motor may run, but the drum won’t.

3) Check the Lint Path

A severe lint clog won’t usually stop spinning by itself, but it can overheat components and blow a safety fuse. Remove and clean the lint screen, then shine a light down the chute. If you see a mat of lint, it’s time for a deeper clean.

Digging Deeper: Common Parts That Stop the Drum

If you’re comfortable removing panels—and you’ve already disconnected power—work methodically, taking photos as you go.

Drive Belt (High-Probability Culprit)

Symptoms: Motor runs, but the drum doesn’t move; you may smell rubber.
What to look for: Snapped belt or one that’s glazed and slipping.
DIY difficulty: Moderate. You’ll thread the new belt around the motor pulley and idler arm. Take a photo of the routing first.

Idler Pulley & Drum Rollers

Symptoms: Loud squeal, thump-thump, or the drum stalls; rough feel when turning the drum by hand.
What to look for: Wobbly pulley, seized roller bearings, flat spots on rollers.
DIY difficulty: Moderate. Replace in sets if significantly worn, to avoid repeat teardown.

Door Switch

Symptoms: Light stays on with the door closed; dryer won’t start or won’t keep running.
Test: Multimeter for continuity as you press the switch, or the simple “light test.”
DIY difficulty: Easy to moderate; often accessible from the front panel.

Thermal Fuse (Electric & Gas)

Person working on a dryer's thermal fuse

Symptoms: The Dryer appears dead, or the motor won’t run after an overheat event.
Test: Continuity across the fuse (should be closed).
Note: A Blown fuse is a symptom. Check airflow—vent runs, lint traps, and the blower housing—for clogs before replacing.

Start Switch & Start Capacitor

Capacitors are commonly used in appliances like dryer

Symptoms: Pressing Start does nothing (switch) or motor hums but won’t kick over (capacitor).
Test: Continuity on the switch; capacitance reading on the capacitor (compare to rating).
DIY difficulty: Moderate; discharge capacitors safely and avoid shorting terminals.

Drive Motor

Symptoms: Persistent hum, burning smell, breaker trips, or runs only with a manual “spin assist.”
Test: Winding resistance compared to spec; inspect for shaft play or debris in the blower wheel.
Consideration: Motor replacement can be time-consuming; weigh the cost vs. the age of the appliance.

Control Board or Timer

Symptoms: Intermittent starts, erratic behavior despite good switches and fuses.
Approach: Visual inspection for burnt traces or swollen capacitors; confirm inputs/outputs with a wiring diagram.
Caution: Boards are pricey; diagnosis should be confident before replacement.

Airflow Matters: The Hidden Domino

Restricted exhaust can overheat and trip safeties. Pull the dryer forward and check:

Vent hose: Avoid crushed foil ducts; use rigid or semi-rigid where possible.
Exterior hood: Flapper should move freely; lint should not mat the screen.
Run length: Long runs with multiple elbows may need booster fans per local code.

Even if your immediate issue is “no spin,” poor airflow can create new ones—fix it now to prevent déjà vu next month.

When to Stop and Call a Professional

Dryer repair technician who diagnoses and fixes problems

DIY is sensible up to a point. Stop and seek a qualified technician if:

You smell gas, see scorch marks, or the breaker trips repeatedly.
The drum is jammed and won’t budge by hand.
You suspect a control board failure without proper test equipment.
The dryer is under warranty or part of a recall.
You’re not comfortable working around gas fittings or live circuits.

Remember, Appliance Rescue provides guidance, not repairs. If you need local service, look for a licensed appliance technician in your area, check reviews, and confirm they service your brand.

Step-By-Step Mini-Flow (Bookmark This)

a man checking a steps for a Dryer Not Spinning

Verify power and breakers.
Confirm door switch click and drum light behavior.
Try another cycle; reduce the load; disable child lock.
Listen: hum (likely mechanical) vs. silence (likely electrical/safety).
Hand-spin test: smooth or gritty?
Inspect belt, rollers, and idler (if accessible).
Test door switch, start switch, and thermal fuse (continuity).
Consider the start capacitor and motor if the drum only moves with a push.
Restore airflow: lint screen, chute, vent line, and exterior hood.
If uncertain—pause and call a pro.

Final Thoughts (and Where to Get More Help)

Calling for help to fix the dryer problem

A dryer that won’t spin usually comes down to a handful of suspects: the belt, rollers/idler, door or start circuits, thermal fuse, or the motor/capacitor. Work in order—from simple to complex—and document what you find. For more walk-throughs, wiring-diagram tips, and safety pointers, explore Appliance Rescue. If you have questions or want to suggest a guide topic, feel free to Contact us—we’re happy to expand our Expert Guides, Appliance Tips, and Troubleshooting Advice to cover what you need next.